|
George Somers was born at Lyme in 1554, son of a wine importer
who was in partnership with Sir Walter Raleigh. Somers, like other
Elizabethan captains from the southwest such as Sir Francis Drake,
was essentially a state-encouraged pirate, preying on the galleons
of Spain that were returning from the Americas laden with gold.
He got rich enough to buy himself an estate at Weymouth and another,
Berne Manor, at Whitchurch Canonicorum (four miles northeast of
Lyme). In 1604 he was Lyme's mayor and Member of Parliament, and
in 1605 was knighted by king James I. He was admiral of a fleet
of eight ships, and in 1609, on June 2, he set sail in one of them,
the "Sea Venture", from Plymouth. The Virginia Company
had hired him to take provisions to Jamestown, where two years earlier
the first English settlement in America had been established and
where it was starving. On July 26, in the midst of the Atlantic,
a hurricane drove the ship aground on an unknown and uninhabited
island, and Sir George claimed it for England. It was Bermuda, actually
discovered a century earlier by Juan Bermóndez of Spain.
Crew and passengers had to spend ten months there, and lived so
well that some didn't want to leave. But they built two pinnaces
from the ship's wreckage and the island's cedarwood, and sailed
on. One pinnace, with fourteen men, was never seen again; the other
made the remaining seven hundred miles to Virginia. Sailing back
later in 1610, Somers paused again at Bermuda, and died. There his
heart was buried; his body was pickled in a cask of rum (presumably
to preserve it, though possibly to hide it from the superstitious
crew), brought back to Lyme harbour, and transported up to Whitchurch
Canonicorum for burial at the church of Saint Candida and the Holy
Cross.
By October of that same year, 1610, one of the many Lyme men in the crew, Sylvester Jourdain, had rushed into print with an account called A Discovery of the Barmudas, or, The Island of Devils. Shakespeare, either from this book, or from his patron the Earl of Southampton, who was charter-holder of the Virginia colony, will have known the tale, and The Tempest, with its opening scene of shipwreck on what seems (but is not) a desert island, had its first performance at court on November 5, 1611.
Now Lyme Regis is "twinned" with the town of St. George, Bermudathe arrangment started when their respective town criers, Richard Fox and Bob Burns, met at the world town-crying championship at Halifax, Nova Scotia, in 1978and Lyme worthies get invited to entertainment in the bars and golf courses of that extended sandbank. Many English towns seem to be twinned with small places in France that you haven't heard ofAxminster with Douvres-la-Délivrande (near Caen in Normandy)but Lyme does have this historical connection with its twin. St. George, on St. George's Island near the airport, is not the chief town of Bermuda; I don't know whether it's the spot where Somers landed, or whether larger Hamilton has its own twin. (The American parlance of "sister cities" seems handier; what happens when a place becomes "twinned" with more than one other?)
Bermuda is the visible bit of a submarine hump called the Bermuda Rise. It
is caused by one of the planet's "hot spots", places deep under
the crust (perhaps between the mantle and the core) where extra
heat causes magma to rise. As the plates of the crust move slowly
over them, some of these hot spots cause lines of volcanoes, such
as the Hawaiian islands (active volcanoes above where the spot is
now, extinct eroded ones back along its trail). The Bermuda Hot
Spot sent up no volcanoes, but has had a different huge effect (according
to geologists Roy Van Arsdale and Randel Cox, "The Mississippi's
Curious Origins", in Scientific American, January 2007).
Its trail relative to the crust started around Kansas. At that time
the Appalachian mountains formed a continuous band with the Ouachita
Mountains of Oklahoma and Arkansas. So the rivers of what is now
the central U.S.A. flowed away north and west (oppositely to now),
there being at that time no Rockies. In the Cretaceous age (from
about 150 to 65 million years ago) the hot spot passed southeastward
under this mountain band, causing it to swell to greater heights,
which (like all mountains) eroded as they rose; after which this
part, having lost much of its rock and then cooled, sank to below
sea level, forming a large bay open to the Gulf of Mexico. So the
rivers reversed and flowed into this bay, filling it with sediment
(it is now a plain termed the Mississippi Embayment, reaching up
to Missouri). The hot spot's course turned somewhat leftward, passing
under South Carolina and reaching where Bermuda is now. Among its
delayed effects were the 1812 and 1886 earthquakes centred on New
Madrid, Missouri, and Charleston, South Carolinathe former
being the largest ever recorded in the contiguous U.S., and otherwise
surprising since most earthquakes happen not in mid-continental
plains but at the rugged edges of crustal plates.
The 1609 embarkation of Somers was commemorated in 2009 with Lyme's
typical parade down Broad Street and along Marine Parade and a ceremony
on Victoria Pier.

|